HOW A DIAMOND LEARNED TO FLOAT...

When Walter Wittek set out to work on a circular profile ring in 1979, he laid a milestone for modern jewellery design. Instead of attempting to reduce the setting, he explored the possibility of abandoning the setting altogether.  After carefully forging the ring, giving it the necessary tensile strength, Wittek cut an opening into the ring. Into this gap he set a diamond, safely held in place by the sheer tension between the ends of the ring shank. An elaborate artistic and creative process requiring patience, concentration and mastery of the material as well as precision: the result gave rise to the original Niessing Tension Ring.

 

PERFECTION THROUGH EXPERIENCE...

Each Niessing tension ring is crafted with cool perfection. The process begins with fire and the glow of molten precious metal. Niessing has developed special alloys especially for their tension rings.  These alloys make it possible for the tension to be so enduring and precise. Experienced craftsmanship, manual dexterity and cutting edge technology are required to cut and widen the gap in the finished ring. Each of the various models poses its own unique challenges. The goldsmiths know each one like the backs of their own hands. They measure the tension of each ring and then archive the empirically determined data so that the process which was used to manufacture each ring can always be reviewed, even after several years have passed. Each brilliant-cut diamond is individually tested to determine whether it can cope with the special demands of a Niessing ring. The stone must not have large inclusions at the wrong places: otherwise it could be damaged by the band's pressure, which can be as strong as 15 kilograms. The stone-setters shape the stone's “bed” according to the unique attributes of each individual brilliant-cut diamond. They guarantee its ideal fit and consummate symmetry. 

The specialised techniques have been continuously improved since the first Niessing ring in 1979. The manufacturing processes used in Niessing's workshops are subjected to ongoing optimisation. More highly evolved techniques pave the way for the design team to invent new shapes and new designs. Conversely, their novel ideas motivate the quest for new technical solutions. The various labours of the goldsmiths, diamond appraisers, stone-setters and designers all share one common goal: to create the perfect Niessing tension ring.

UNIQUE AND INDIVIDUAL...

All Niessing’s jewellery is manufactured in-house: from design, to smelting the bars of gold or platinum, to finishing the individual jewellery pieces; all under one roof. Research and development are carried out jointly by the workshop and the design department. One step requires the master goldsmith's steady hand, while the next will involve the latest laser technology, however, mass production is not in Niessing’s vocabulary.  Each Niessing Tension Ring is a valuable original, manufactured individually for each customer.

WITHOUT SETTING YET SECURE...

Will the diamond hold securely without a setting? 
The unique impression of the floating diamond inevitably raises this question.
But of course, this was the question Niessing asked themselves, too, at the outset of developing the tension ring.

Through decades of experience and know how Niessing can guarantee that each diamond is held securely and that the ring will retain its tension. Only the most experienced goldsmiths can forge the precious metal to the point that it will hold the diamond by sheer tension. The diamond setter needs patience and a good eye, as well. He inserts the stone into the band and meticulously looks for the exact position in the ring. When each tension ring is complete, Niessing test the tension with a special tool and finally a unique identity number is engraved on the inside of each tension ring.

WORK OF ART & DESIGN CLASSIC...

In contrast to classic diamond rings, the tension ring is intriguing in its reduction to the essential. Its formal aesthetics are reminiscent of the idea of the circle. A circle has no beginning and no end: the symbol of eternity. The circle is opened at one point, and a diamond is placed there. The diamond represents light. The stone appears to float, its sparkle visible from all sides. The tension ring offers the view of the diamond's full beauty, its precision and the beams of light playing with the 56 facets of the brilliant cut. 

Today, the Niessing Ring is considered a classic of modern design and in 2001 Niessing received its copyright. Throughout the past four decades the tension ring has been included in numerous museums and collections. During all this time, it has lost none of its original fascination.